Sadly we had to leave the hotel. Went out to try and get small presents for family but all we got was an idea of what to get, hopefully when we get to Sedona. John, Dot and their son Matthew took us to lunch and then we struck out for Gallup, listening to the last two CDs of ‘Atlas Shrugged’. The scenery changed gradually from flattish juniper covered hills to towering mountains with sharp red overhangs, mesas or buttes, of the sort John Wayne and a hundred other cowboys rode through or among. We drove along endless dead straight roads, fifty miles long disappearing into the distance, feeling quite humbled by the scenery. What made it doubly fantastic for me was the sight of many lines of prairie trains, criss-crossing our line of vision. Swapped drivers so we could both stare at the scenery in wonder. Arrived at Gallop around 5 pm and checked into the hotel. Then drove three miles to El Rancho – a motel where just about every early celebrity has stayed including John Wayne. I think it was built for the film crews originally and became a popular haunt of the rich and famous. Regretted not booking in there for the night – it had an impressive lobby full of mementos, curios and old photographs, beautifully polished woodwork and the ubiquitous Indian shop. We had supper there though, scooping up a bit of the atmosphere, and drove back in time with three Union Pacific engines, pulling a mile or two of containers.

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